What to Look for When Buying Pre Owned Designer Jewellery

 3 minute read

A famous name is a good place to start. It is not, however, where the story ends.

Buying pre owned designer jewellery can be a wonderful way to build a collection. But whether it is Cartier, Tiffany, Bvlgari or Chaumet, there are a few things worth considering before falling for the name on the box.

The Signature

Designer jewellery will often carry signatures, hallmarks, serial numbers or collection specific markings.

They can tell us a great deal, but a signature alone does not prove authenticity. The style, placement and execution of these marks should make sense for the maker, piece and period.

The Details

Good jewellery tends to reveal itself in the details.

Construction, weight, settings, clasps, hallmarks and finishing all contribute to the bigger picture. For diamond and gemstone pieces, the stones themselves may also require specialist examination or certification.

It is rarely about one clue. It is about whether everything makes sense together.

Provenance

Original boxes are lovely. Original paperwork is even better.

Receipts, certificates, service records and other documentation can help establish the history of a piece and add another layer of confidence.

But jewellery has a habit of outliving its paperwork.

A missing box or receipt does not automatically make a piece questionable. What matters is understanding what is there, what is not, and whether the story stacks up.

Condition

Pre owned jewellery has usually lived a little. We rather like that.

Fine scratches and gentle signs of wear can be entirely expected. More important is whether a piece has been excessively polished, damaged or significantly altered.

Resizing, replacement stones and repairs are not necessarily deal breakers, but they are worth knowing about.

And Finally, Do You Actually Love It?

This is the part that can get lost amongst signatures, certificates and serial numbers.

A famous name does not automatically make a piece worth owning.

At Edmonds & Pearce, we consider authenticity, condition, craftsmanship and provenance where available. But after all of that, there is one final question.

Would we want it in the collection?

Because the name might get our attention.

The jewellery has to keep it.